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Post by faithfulbutler on Jun 9, 2005 20:31:46 GMT -5
I have come across a new dilemma that i'd like some opinions on. I want to make a cast of a head out of something workable that i can then resculpt and then cast again.So basically i want to make a copy of the original head,then be able to easily carve and add bits to it and then duplicate the finished product a few times. Obviously i don't want a hollow Cast as i'm only working in 6" and i need to drill and peg. This is a new area to me so i really need some advice from the Casting Gurus we have here. ;D
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Post by Wild Willy on Jun 9, 2005 21:12:46 GMT -5
I would mold the original head then jamm Super Sculpy into the mold to make a sculpy positive copy of the original head, then cook it. Once cured and cooled, you can drill, shave, sand, add on, ect. Then heat-set your modifications and mold it. Hope this helps. Will
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Post by casimir on Jun 9, 2005 22:58:17 GMT -5
I've used liquid latex to make molds of heads (in fact I'm making one at the 6" scale right now), then I make the casting from Alumilite, which can be easily sanded and added upon. As with any mold, though, you have to be careful of air bubbles. I usually squeeze the mold while the Alumilite is curing. (Takes about a minute.)
Willy, have you had success with the Sculpey method you mentioned? I would think that air bubbles would get easily trapped. I'm curious, because if that works, it might be more viable for the stuff I do.
Casimir
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Post by faithfulbutler on Jun 10, 2005 0:33:31 GMT -5
Thanks for your help guys.Will,jamming sculpey into a mold sounds interesting but i must admit my first question too is how to combat air bubbles?Then of course how can you be sure of filling all the little nooks and crannies of the scale figures we deal with?I,like Cason would love to know more about this method.I guess i see Sculpey as being too thick to successfully pack into a mold in that way.Of course i have been known to be wrong many times before. ;D Alumilite,is that the stuff that cures in a slightly transparent blue-ish sort of colour?
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Post by Figuremaster Les on Jun 10, 2005 7:51:38 GMT -5
I'm in the same dilemma. Back when I used to work at the Zoo in Jacksonville Florida here in the US, we used a product called Smooth-On for our large animal figure castings. I am after a small kit of the regular casting stuff myself. I think you can make a mold in a small paper cup or some such. I haven't ever tried that myself, but have seen the results that a buddy of mine tried and they were terrific. You might look up Smooth-On casting stuff and see if you can get a test kit. That's my plan. Heads wouldn't use too much material I wouldn't think.
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Post by Wild Willy on Jun 10, 2005 8:50:38 GMT -5
I have done my method and it works out fine, however, I'v had to do a front & back of the head mold otherwise the sculpy would distort tryiong to get it out. Here is exactly what I've done. I have a 12" scale head which had the generic shape of an Early Adam West (imo of course) I used RESIN and cast the front of the face and afterwards the back of the head. I then after spraying with a "No stick" release agent, jammed Sculpy into the facial portion of my mold and pulled out an exacts duplicate. I ran my HEATGUN over it a few times and it hardened, then I shaved off the nose eyebrows mouth ect. and added my own features then heatgun cured them in place. I guess this method would have problems if there were lots of abstract details which the sculpy could not be pulled out without distorting. I just wanted to toss this out to you guys and if nothing else it may spark an idea. Will
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Post by Wild Willy on Jun 10, 2005 8:57:41 GMT -5
Something I believe Cason mentioned, doing a liquid latex mold. Just take the original head and put it on a stick or pensil. Dip it into some latex and leave it until completely dry, then dunk it again. Repeat this process at least 6 times. Then make a small incission from the base of the neck up to the base of the scull then you can pull the original head out. Close the incission with tape (I use electrical tape) and then fill with Resin, and as Cason mentioned, you can sand shave & alter the resin copy by adding sculpy of putty.
I have used the "Dunk mold" technique for my Blackula head, Bruce Lee head, Sid Visious as well as Batgloves.
Will
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Post by Figuremaster Les on Jun 10, 2005 17:40:32 GMT -5
Hey Will, I like the two part suggestion. I am doing a Chris Reeve Superman custom for a guy in NYC and he has this head he says is great. He wants me to recast it for us both before I use it on his figure. your method is do-able for me as I have no resin to cast but have all the epoxy putty and sculpy III I can ever want. So, questions, when casting the original (assuming it's resin), how do you get it out of the original epoxy mold halves without ruining it? Do you spray non stick on it? What if I don't have access to a proper non stick spray? Will some household stuff work? I can just see me locking this great new head in epoxy for all time!
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Post by faithfulbutler on Jun 10, 2005 22:16:38 GMT -5
Thanks Will,it sounds great but i do get concerned about the tiny nooks and crannies getting filled up and not being able to be pulled out.Sounds like a great method for limbs,torsoes etc though so i may just try that. I think i'll give the Latex path a try and see how it pans out.Thanks so much for your input guys,i'll exalt all of you!
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Post by casimir on Jun 10, 2005 22:24:06 GMT -5
I've heard good things about Smooth-On, but I've never tried it.
Someday I'm going to get brave and get into two-part molds. Just haven't gotten that far yet.
C.
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Post by Figuremaster Les on Jul 27, 2005 12:23:23 GMT -5
Heads in cups is all I am up for as of now...
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Post by Figuremaster Les on Aug 9, 2005 9:12:37 GMT -5
I found this topic again after having solved the very thing for myself with my Christopher Reeve head.
In the "workspaces thread" I show my so called "High Tech Molding and Casting Rig". It's really just boxes and a metal claw "crab" for holding the head to be molded in place above and inside of the desired dixie cup and letting it set.
It did work very well for me and I hope you have tried something similar (crabs or no...) since. It helps to have some Smooth-On mold materials.
Just a followup note. Hope that helps and that you got your question resolved.
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Post by faithfulbutler on Aug 9, 2005 19:24:53 GMT -5
Hope that helps and that you got your question resolved. Funny you should mention that Les.I've been absolutely flat-out getting my Customcon entry together plus some Commission work done.I haven't even had time to set up and take photos of my finished pieces lately. All the advice has been a great help and i'm keen to give it a go but it's going to have to wait until i get the Con entry finished first.I also found somewhere to get all i need so hopefully i'll be paying them a visit next month.
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Post by Wild Willy on Aug 9, 2005 22:27:27 GMT -5
That's great Andy-man! hey any sneak peeks on your customcon entries? if so, post em on da slab. Will
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Post by faithfulbutler on Aug 10, 2005 1:29:28 GMT -5
That's great Andy-man! hey any sneak peeks on your customcon entries? if so, post em on da slab. Will Sorry Mate,they're Top Secret until Customcon.Unfortunately you'll have to wait until October,if i get them finished that is.
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